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A waterfall dropping into a jungle pool in Bali.
Journal

Notes From The Road

The questions we answer most often on WhatsApp, written down properly.

9 Articles

Reading

Nine Things Worth Knowing First

Each one ends with the trips it refers to, so you can go straight from the argument to the thing itself.

Cliffs above Diamond Beach on Nusa Penida.

Nusa Penida In One Day: What's Actually Worth It

Planning · 3 min read

The island is bigger than it looks on the map. Here is the realistic route for east or west, and why doing both in a day ruins it.

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A sandbar and turquoise bay in Komodo National Park.

Open Trip Or Private Charter In Komodo?

Liveaboard · 3 min read

What you actually get for the price difference, how the cabins compare, and the seasickness question nobody warns you about.

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A waterfall dropping into a jungle pool in Bali.

Rainy Season Isn't The Enemy

Local tips · 2 min read

November to March means greener rice fields, fuller waterfalls, half the crowds and mornings that are usually clear.

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First light over the Mount Batur caldera and the lake below.

What Climbing Batur In The Dark Is Actually Like

Doing It · 5 min read

Six hundred vertical metres of loose volcanic gravel, a 02:00 pickup, and breakfast cooked in a steam vent. The honest version.

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Two guests on a jeep roof watching the sun clear the ridge above Lake Batur.

Jeep Or Trek? Two Ways Up The Same Volcano

Choosing · 4 min read

Same mountain, same sunrise, same price. The difference is an hour of sleep and about six hundred vertical metres.

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Terraced rice fields cut into a hillside north of Ubud.

Tegallalang Before The Buses

Timing · 5 min read

The terraces are a working irrigation system a thousand years old. The swings are a business built on top. Here is how to get both right.

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Fire dance performers in a clifftop amphitheatre at Uluwatu as the sun sets.

A Hundred Men, No Instruments: The Kecak At Uluwatu

Culture · 5 min read

No gamelan, no orchestra, just a hundred voices in interlocking rhythm on a clifftop at sunset. What it is, and how to sit well.

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Clear shallow water over reef at Menjangan Island in West Bali National Park.

Bali's Best Snorkelling Is Four Hours From Seminyak

Water · 5 min read

Menjangan has wall reef that drops from a metre below the surface into the blue, and visibility the south coast cannot touch. The catch is the drive.

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A quad bike on a muddy jungle track outside Ubud.

ATV In Ubud: What You're Actually Signing Up For

Adventure · 4 min read

The tunnel waterfall is real and it lasts about ninety seconds. The other two hours are mud, and that is the point.

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